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Hair oil is a classic, stylist-loved product, but to get all of its benefits, you have to be using it correctly. If we’re talking about hydration, hair oil works best after using a conditioner or treatment mask first. If used alone, it may not have the hydrating effect that you’re going for. Nurse practitioner and hair care expert Jodi Logerfo, DNP, APRN, FNP-BC, notes that hair oil is meant to coat the surface of the hair and seal other hydrating ingredients into the cuticle instead of acting as a sole source of moisture.
And that’s not all this product can do. Logerfo says hair oil has a few more key benefits that make it worth adding to your routine. “Hair oils can increase hair manageability by decreasing the friction between the neighboring hair fibers,” she says. “They can also increase hair’s resistance to mechanical insults induced by daily grooming. [And] they help eliminate static electricity by depositing positively charged ions on the hair shaft, which counteract the negative charges caused by combing and brushing.” Hair oil can even keep away dreaded split ends. “One of the most important effects of hair oils is the ability to coat that outer frayed cuticle of the hair shaft and mend it,” Logerfo adds. “By doing this, it can halt the progression of breakage.”
Logerfo recommends hair oil for all hair types — you just have to choose the right one for yours. For thick, curly, or dry hair, Logerfo says that castor oil is a good and accessible option. Castor oil contains ricinoleic acid triglycerides, as well as linoleic, oleic, stearic, palmitic, and linolenic fatty acids. Because it’s rich in ricinoleic acid (a monounsaturated fatty acid), it can act as an occlusive moisturizer and prevent or decrease water loss.
Thin and fine hair types, however, will want to stay away from heavy occlusive oils to avoid the hair becoming greasy. A lighter oil such as argan is a good option because, according to Logerfo, it’s high in oleic acid, which has been found to have a regulatory effect on the secretion of sebum. It’s still capable of locking in a good amount of water into the hair, though, making it the perfect companion for thinner hair. For dry or damaged hair types, Logerfo suggests coconut and sesame oils. She says that sesame oil acts as an emollient (moisturizer) and has enhanced penetration capacity, while coconut oil is packed with fatty acids and vitamins that help repair damage.
The best way to apply hair oil is toward the end of your hair care routine while strands are damp or dry. Depending on your specific hair, a few drops could do the trick, but if you have drier hair, you may need a few extra. Logerfo says to start about a centimeter from your scalp and use your hands to apply the hair oil, working your way down. You can apply a little more to your ends — especially if they’re dry or damaged. Then, add a little to fully dry hair to smooth strands and eliminate frizz.
This article is for general informational purposes only.
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