Ferments Are the Hottest Ingredients in Skin Care, But What Do They Do?

If you spend any amount of time on the wellness side of social media, you’re likely already aware that fermented foods (such as kimchi and kefir) can be beneficial to gut health. But it turns out, ferments may be good for your skin, too — and not just when ingested. 

Fermented skin care ingredients have long been popular in Korean beauty circles, and recently the trend has begun to make its way stateside, with countless beloved brands experimenting with adding ferments to their products. To get the lowdown on ferments and how they can benefit your skin, we spoke with cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur Ginger King. Ahead, get the 411 and discover some of our favorite fermented products.

What Are Fermented Ingredients? 

First, a little chemistry lesson is in order: According to King, fermentation is a chemical reaction that involves the controlled breakdown of large molecules into smaller, more “digestible” compounds. Typically, the process is facilitated through the introduction of specific bacteria, enzymes, or yeast (as is the case with one of the world’s most beloved ferments: beer). While pretty much any naturally occurring ingredient can be fermented, some are used in skin care products more than others. Kombucha is one popular and widely used skin care ferment; others include yogurt, black rice, and vegan squalane (which is created by fermenting sugarcane). 

How Can Fermented Skin Care Benefit the Skin?

According to a study (fittingly) published in the scientific journal Fermentation, the breakdown of molecules into smaller compounds may make it easier for ingredients to penetrate your skin. King echoes this, adding that fermented ingredients are often more “easily absorbed by the skin.” This may mean you’ll see better — or faster — results when using fermented skin care products versus standard products. And the difference isn’t minor, either: One study published in the journal Molecules found that fermented aloe is up to 400% more moisturizing than standard, unfermented aloe. 

It’s also worth noting that the fermentation process often creates skin-friendly byproducts, such as lactic acid and malic acid. Both are gentle alpha-hydroxy acids that can help promote brighter, smoother-looking skin. That being said, the exact benefits of a given ferment depend on the ingredient being fermented. Fermented tea, for example, is high in antioxidants, while squalane derived from fermented sugarcane can help hydrate the skin. 

Should Everyone Use Ferments?

According to King, ferments are generally considered suitable for sensitive skin. During the fermentation process, she says, “potential irritants are ‘filtered out,’ so you not only get the most efficacious ingredient, but it’s also gentle on skin.” Additionally, fermented ingredients can help support your skin’s microbiome — the integrity of which is essential for strong, healthy-looking (and healthy-feeling) skin. Of course, it’s always important to check with a dermatologist before adding any new ingredients to your routine, especially if you’re prone to sensitivity. 

Shop the trend: 

1. Youth to the People Kombucha + 10% AHA Power Exfoliant

Tackle dullness, unevenness, and dryness as you sleep with this overnight exfoliating treatment. The clean formula contains fermented black tea and a gentle (but effective) blend of alpha-hydroxy acids to help smooth, nourish, and brighten your skin. 

2. SK-II Anti-Aging Facial Treatment Essence 

According to King, Japanese brand SK-II is “one of the pioneers” of fermented skin care. This holy-grail essence stars the brand’s signature ingredient, PITERA^TM, a mineral-rich ingredient created by fermenting sake wine with yeast. It’s pricey, but the essence’s skin-brightening and refining effects may make it worth the splurge. 

3. HaruHaru Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Toner

If dryness is a concern, this nourishing toner is a must-buy. The K-beauty favorite contains fermented black rice and bamboo shoot bark and helps moisturize, strengthen, and smooth the skin while prepping it for the rest of your routine.  

4. Beekman 1802 Oh! Mega Milk Fermented Barrier Boosting Facial Oil

If you’re a face oil enthusiast, give this fermented option a try. The fatty acid-rich formula penetrates twice as deep as a standard facial oil, delivering superior nourishment, hydration, and skin barrier repair. Plus, it helps brighten, refine, and even the skin’s tone. We love using it on no-makeup days for a glowy look sans highlighter. 

5. Facetory Urban Calm Barrier Cream 

Everybody needs moisturizer — and this gel cream with fermented honeybush, hyaluronic acid, and heartleaf oil is one of our favorite picks for all skin types. The lightweight formula firms, hydrates, and soothes the skin, leaving it feeling plump and nourished.