How the ‘Wrong Shoe Theory’ Can Elevate Your Everyday Style

When stylist Allison Bornstein introduced the “Wrong Shoe Theory” to TikTok last year, she changed the style game: Sometimes the “wrong” shoe is actually the right one.

Bornstein, who styles the likes of Katie Holmes, has honed a career rooted in using fashion as a celebration of individuality and self-expression. As opposed to pushing viewers to purchase more, she emphasizes that most of us already own the pieces needed to embody our own unique style — we may just need to get a little imaginative.

That’s where the Wrong Shoe Theory comes in. Breaking from the long-standing tradition of matching footwear to accessories, or reserving certain shoes for formal, casual, or athletic outfits, Bornstein suggests opting for a shoe that doesn’t make sense on paper but ends up working really well in practice. And once again, you likely already have all the ingredients you need at home. Keep reading for how to make this styling hack work for you.

What Is the Wrong Shoe Theory?

Ultimately, it all boils down to intention over function; By choosing a shoe that doesn’t conventionally go with an outfit, the wearer is making a conscious style choice and expressing their personality. 

In 2023, Bornstein elaborated on her theory by using an experience with a client whose on-the-go lifestyle necessitated wearing sneakers every day. As a result, the client assumed she was committed to an athletic vibe, and outfitted herself accordingly, often building her looks from the sneakers up.

But Bornstein offered a different solution. To frame her client’s choice as more of an intentional one, she still used sneakers as the foundation but paired them with the client’s favorite nonsporty pieces instead. The result was what Bornstein described as “interesting and cool.”

“The addition of the sneakers now looked like a choice,” she explained. “They look like an intentional styling decision. And while they are still functional, the look feels more genuine to her style.”

Who Should Try the Wrong Shoe Theory

One of the benefits of the Wrong Shoe Theory is that it works for everybody and across every season. As Bornstein explained on Instagram, most of us already have the pieces that make up our personal style, so the concept only requires you to break down your mental barrier and forgo traditional matching.

By eliminating compartmentalization and no longer abiding by certain style rules, you’ll have more opportunity to create outfits that feel authentic to you. This underscores the accessibility of the Wrong Shoe Theory: “If you’re cool enough to buy the piece, you’re cool enough to wear the piece.” Bornstein added that determining your personal style and what shoes to start with relies on prioritizing the shoes you wear most often.

“Identifying what shoes you wear the most can be very illuminating because it shows you what is important and valuable to you and your lifestyle,” Bornstein posted on TikTok. So, if your go-to are sneakers, pair them with a suit and oversized blazer for the office. Or, if you feel your most powerful in leather loafers or dressy sandals, wear them with socks, boxer shorts, and a button-up.

The key is to remember that no shoe is technically “wrong.” Bornstein told Glamour last fall that there “is not necessarily a universal wrong shoe for every look.” She continued: “The idea of ‘the wrong shoe’ is just to push beyond that first instinct.”

How To Apply the Wrong Shoe Theory

Another quick way to adopt the Wrong Shoe Theory is to focus on texture — an especially helpful tip if you’re used to matching your accessories based on style and vibe. On TikTok, Bornstein used her own outfit as an example to create juxtaposition using texture: leather ballet flats with a structured black vest, paired with light, cotton pants.

“The vest is thicker and it’s tailored, and the pants are thin, flowy and casual,” she said. “But because the pants are in the middle, I’m going to use the shoe to tie it back into the vest.” The shoes are still “wrong” because they’re a formal style with a casual pant, but the similar textures between the shoes and vest create harmony.

Try Playing With Seasons

While the Wrong Shoe Theory works well all year, trying it out during the summer or fall can make the transition even more seamless.

“Try a summery look with a fall shoe,” Bornstein said. “You can even crank it up to the next level: Do a summery look, but then add the chunky loafer and a sock.” You can also use the hack to ease into the “cowgirl summer” trend by pairing a flowy summer sundress with a cowboy boot.

“My favorite part about this, and my favorite part about the Wrong Shoe method in general, is that it’s free,” Bornstein added. “You don’t have to buy anything. It’s all about picking the shoe that’s not your first instinct to give your look a little personality and to keep it from feeling one note.”