An Expert’s Guide to Skin Flooding

Like plenty of other beauty trends making the rounds on social media, the concept of “skin flooding” is a rebrand of what skin care practitioners have been doing for years. This happens a lot: TikTok and Instagram users give something that’s been around for a long time a cool new name, and suddenly it’s all anyone is talking about. That’s not always a bad thing. In the case of skin flooding, for example, more people now understand the act of applying hydrating skin care products on damp skin as a way of trapping and maximizing moisture. But should they try it?

What Is Skin Flooding?

“This practice has roots in a tried-and-true technique that dermatologists use to restore the skin barrier and deliver topical medications, called ‘soak and smear,’” says Megan Poynot Couvillion, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and medical and cosmetic dermatology

clinical research investigator at the Austin Institute for Clinical Research. When done appropriately, the technique can seal in moisture (and therefore boost overall hydration) and improve the health of the skin barrier. Dr. Couvillion says this is necessary for optimal skin function, and “can help provide the dewy look that so many hope to achieve.” 

Still, the methodology isn’t for everyone. “Just because something has gone viral on social media doesn’t mean it’s the right skin care technique for you,” says Melanie Palm, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon in San Diego, California. “The best skin care routine is one that is tailored to your skin type and needs.” (More on this later.)

Skin flooding involves applying water-binding (or humectant) serums, emollient creams, and/or occlusive ointments to damp skin in order to deliver and trap hydration. “In fact, layering a mist, toner, or essence after cleansing, followed by serums and a moisturizer, is a commonly used technique and the foundation of a basic skin care routine,” Dr. Palm says. 

While the concept may not be exactly novel, the practice has merit. “When the skin is dry, our barrier is impaired and we actually lose water through the skin's surface, known as transepidermal water loss,” Dr. Couvillion says. “No amount of oral hydration can correct dry skin. Instead, you have to correct the barrier at the skin’s surface.”

Who Should Try Skin Flooding?

Those with a compromised skin barrier or dry, postmenopausal, mature skin can typically benefit from a skin-flooding routine, while others may benefit from the technique in colder winter months.

But some should skip skin flooding altogether. Those with acne-prone or oily skin “do not need multiple moisturizers,” says Anne Chapas, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and instructor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York. Dr. Couvillion further notes that “concerns with acne, rosacea, a rash, sun spots, or other dyspigmentation are likely better addressed with a dermatologist” before starting a new skin care routine.

When Is the Best Time To Skin Flood? 

Dr. Couvillion recommends doing your skin flooding routine before bed “to allow maximal time for absorption” while sleeping. The frequency with which you should flood depends on just how much hydration your skin needs. “Most people with dry skin can benefit from doing this routine three to five times a week, and scale up or down depending on how their skin responds to this protocol,” Dr. Palm says. “It is possible to overdo it, which can potentially lead to clogged pores, especially if you’re using occlusive products, as adding too much occlusive to your skin routine can block normal oil glands and lead to acne and cysts.” For this reason, the dermatologist suggests adding products slowly. “You don’t need to do the entire routine,” she says.  And keep in mind, like with any at-home skin care routine, five to six weeks of consistent application is required before noticeable results will appear. 

Skin Care Ingredients To Avoid

When skin flooding, it’s best to stick to hydrating and nonirritating ingredients, Dr. Couvillion says. Products containing actives such as retinoids and and other prescription topical medications, or exfoliants including alpha or beta hydroxy acids, can be absorbed to a higher degree when applied under creams or ointments and may cause irritation or rashes. “This can put you at risk of developing retinoid dermatitis, an irritant dermatitis caused by a high concentration of vitamin A derivative absorbed into the skin,” Dr. Palm says. “The result is redness, itching, and dryness.” 

Dr. Couvillion adds: “The concept is improved absorption, so any product that is potentially irritating or exfoliating may be overabsorbed.”

How To Skin Flood

1. Start With Damp Skin

“It helps to do this routine when your skin is still damp, ideally after a shower or cleansing, for the best results,” Dr. Palm says. “That way, your skin more readily absorbs the products being applied.” While dampening skin with water certainly works, some may also choose to use a facial mist or essence made with hydrating and nourishing ingredients (such as ceramides, oxygen, glycerin, and peptides) as a first step in a skin flooding routine.

Try it:

• Luzern The Essence
• Epicuren Colostrum Hydrating Mist
• Kat Burki Form Control Marine Collagen Gel

2. Layer a Serum With Humectants

“Humectants are ingredients that bind to water to hydrate the skin,” Dr. Chapas explains. “Some of the best humectants contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, propylene glycol, and urea.” When choosing a serum to help skin retain moisture, both Dr. Palm and Dr. Couvillion recommend a formula with hyaluronic acid. “Our outer layer of skin can absorb water well but doesn't hold onto it. Hyaluronic acid enhances the skin's ability to bind water,” Dr. Coulvillion says. Dermatologists love glycerin, too, just as much as hyaluronic acid. “Glycerin is a humectant and powerful moisturizer that could benefit your skin flooding routine, especially if you have dry skin or a compromised skin barrier,” Dr. Palm says. 

Try it:

• BeautyStat Triple-Plump Coconut Milk Serum
• SkinMedica HA5 Hydra Collagen Replenish + Restore Hydrator
• Avene Cicalfate Intensive Skin Restorative Serum 

3. Seal With an Emollient Moisturizer or Occlusive Balm

As a last step, apply a cream or ointment balm to seal moisture into the skin and promote absorption of the previous ingredients. Our pros suggest opting for creams made with ceramides, which are “effective in creating a protective layer that prevents transepidermal water loss, while shielding the skin from dehydration and other oxidative stressors,” Dr. Palm says. Peptides are also “key hydrators which contain amino acids that are the building blocks for elastin and collagen.” Squalane and dimethicone round out the derm-favorite ingredients. 

Try it:

• Beekman 1802 Milk RX
• The Inkey List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
• Epicutis Hyvia Creme

4. Don’t Forget the Eyes and Lips

If the skin under your eyes is parched, try the same technique by applying a hydrating serum on damp skin, then stoking absorption with an emollient balm or cream. Dry lips can also benefit from a flooding technique to provide and seal moisture.

Try it:

• PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Microneedle Eye Patches
• Drunk Elephant's Ceramighty AF Eye Balm 
• Versed Water Rush Hydrating Eye Gel
• OSEA Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster
• Kypris Lip Elixir Balm