Do I Really Have to Throw Out My Expired Makeup?

Anyone who has consumed packaged food or even dairy past its expiration date knows the shelf lives of many products often extend beyond what’s printed on the label. But is the same true for makeup? Not exactly, says Krupa Koestline, a cosmetic biochemist and founder of KKT Innovation Labs, which formulates makeup products for popular beauty brands found at Sephora and Ulta Beauty.

“Expired makeup can be harmful because its ingredients start to break down over time, losing effectiveness and potentially causing skin irritation,” she says. “Additionally, the texture and performance of makeup products may change — foundations might separate, powders could clump, or lipsticks may lose their smooth finish.” While the latter isn’t detrimental, it can be pretty annoying.

More critical to our health is the degradation of certain preservatives used in some makeup products, as this can cause bacterial growth to form. “This might increase the risk of infections, particularly around sensitive areas like the eyes,” Koestline says. 

Mascara is one product that is commonly used past expiration — and shouldn’t be — as it’s applied directly to the eye area and is “used close to mucous membranes,” Koestline says. “Expired mascara can introduce bacteria, which can lead to eye infections, irritation, or even conjunctivitis.”

But mascara's just the start of it. The array of makeup products that pose a risk when used past their expiration dates is more encompassing than one might think. “Anything that is liquid or cream-based tends to be worse after expiration, since it’s more prone to bacterial growth,” Koestline says. Think: cream or gel blush, eyeshadow, and highlighter formulations. “These types of products can lose their consistency and may become breeding grounds for bacteria once the preservatives break down,” she says. 

“Probably the most important makeup product to not use past the expiry date would be makeup with SPF protection claims,” says Alec Batis, chemist and co-founder of Sweet Chemistry. “SPF is considered an over-the-counter drug in the U.S. and undergoes specific FDA testing protocols to ensure broad-spectrum protection and any water-resistant claims. Protection can’t be guaranteed past the expiry date, so the issue becomes one of long-term health if you are using a product that is failing to protect [from] UV aggression.”

When it comes to base makeup, foundations, particularly liquid foundations, also pose a risk if used past their expiration date. “Liquid foundations have a high water content, which makes them a breeding ground for bacteria once expired. Additionally, as the formula degrades, it can cause irritation or breakouts,” she says. 

Though many of us cart around lip products older than our favorite pair of jeans, Koestline advises against using them past their prime, too. “Lipsticks or glosses can harbor bacteria, especially if used past their expiration date,” she says. “While the risks aren’t as high as with eye products, using expired lip products can lead to dryness, irritation, or infection if there’s bacterial contamination.”

The makeup category that allows us to fudge a bit when it comes to expiration dates? Powder products, such as eyeshadows or blushes. “Powder products tend to be a little more forgiving,” she says. 

Which is not to say that we should be using pressed powders leftover from Y2K. “They can still dry out or lose their pigmentation and effectiveness over time,” she says. And while they're less likely to grow mold and bacteria, due to low or no water content, bacteria can develop as a result of using dirty or wet makeup brushes dipped into powder products.

You can easily tell the shelf life of your makeup by looking for the little “M” on the packaging. You’ll usually see a small jar with a number and the letter “M” next to it, which denotes how long the product will last after you open it. For example, "3M" means three months. If you can’t find this number, there are some general guidelines: Mascara is good for about six months, lip gloss and lipstick for around a year, liquid foundation and concealer for up to two years, and powders for up to three years.