Is My Flaky Skin Dry or Dehydrated?

Chilly winter air brings with it a host of beauty concerns, from chapped lips to dry, flaky skin. Most of us address this seasonal dryness the best way we know how: with a rich, heavy-duty moisturizer. But what if the cause of your skin woes isn’t dryness, but dehydration? 

Dry, scaly skin develops when the skin doesn’t have enough oil to keep itself smooth and soft. This can happen for any number of reasons (exposure to cold air and irritation from skin care, for example) but can typically be managed via the use of an emollient-rich moisturizer. 

Dehydration, according to Dr. Whitney Bowe, refers to a lack of moisture in the skin, and while it often goes hand in hand with dryness, anyone can experience dehydration — even those with oily skin. It may sound confusing, but visibly dehydrated skin appears dull and lackluster, sometimes with prominent fine lines and wrinkles. It might even be itchy. On the flip side, dry skin can look scaly, flaky, red, and irritated.

The best way to replenish dehydrated skin is with a double-pronged approach. First, make sure you’re drinking enough water. The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics recommends women aim for about 11.5 cups — and men, about 15.5 cups — of water per day, with roughly 20% of that coming from their diet. 

Adequate fluid intake helps ensure your body has enough water to keep your organs (skin included) hydrated. It’s also a good idea to limit your alcohol and caffeine intake, as both can be dehydrating.

Additionally, you’ll want to adjust your skin care routine. Swap out your thick, rich moisturizers for lightweight, layerable products with humectant ingredients such as hyaluronic acid. This naturally occurring molecule binds to water and can help hydrate and plump dehydrated skin. To get the most bang for your buck, apply your hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin, then layer on a medium-weight face lotion or cream to seal in moisture. You can also try slugging with an occlusive such as Vaseline. And as always, don’t forget to apply plenty of SPF before heading outdoors so the sun doesn’t dry out your skin even more — it’s a must every day, even in the winter.