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We love a social media recommendation just as much as the next beauty-obsessed person, but when it comes to skin care secrets that really work, we want to hear from the experts who have every treatment and product at their fingertips. With practices that offer the latest technology in everything including hyperpigmentation erasure, muscle firming, skin brightening, and skin smoothing, dermatologists may be the most discerning patients when it comes time to treat themselves.
We talked to six board-certified derms to learn which treatments they trust most for their own complexions. The results were both expected (they all get some kind of neuromodulator injection and most swear by prescription retinol) and surprising. Ahead, find which options M.D.s count on to reduce melasma and keep them from going under the knife.
Annie Chiu, M.D.; Redondo Beach, California
Tightening, smoothing, and resurfacing skin are top of mind for Annie Chiu, M.D., a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist based in Los Angeles. In addition to using a prescription retinol nightly to stave off fine lines, wrinkles, and photodamage, the derm also gets neuromodulator injections (such as Botox or Dysport) three times a year to soften the lines on her face and keep the masseter muscles along her jawline from getting bulky (she tends to grind her teeth).
To lightly resurface her skin without the threat of post-treatment dark spots, Dr. Chiu opts for Clear + Brilliant laser treatment three to four times a year. “I do this instead of less frequent but more aggressive lasers, because having more pigmented/Asian skin puts me at increased risk of hyperpigmentation,” she says.
Dr. Chiu augments these treatments with twice-a-year Sofwave, which uses ultrasound technology to tighten, smooth, and lift the face and neck. “The treatment is very safe for any skin type,” she says. “I feel like this gives my skin an overall boost — a little tighter, lifted, and more radiant — without any downtime or concerns of hyperpigmentation. I have not found comparable tightening energy devices on the market for overall tightening that give consistent results.”
Jeanine B Downie, M.D.; Montclair, New Jersey
New Jersey-based board-certified dermatologist Jeanine B Downie, M.D., says she does a lot to keep her skin in its best shape, but is particularly partial to treatments that help reduce melasma, hyperpigmentation, and the effects of gravity. Among her favorite topical skin care services is a series of six PRX Derm Perfexion treatments, done twice a year. The topical collagen biostimulator is massaged onto the skin (or can be coupled with microneedling and other energy treatments) to help with loss of skin firmness, fine lines, depressed scars, hyperpigmentation, and more. “This is the only globally patented treatment formulated with 33% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and hydrogen peroxide. It’s great for all skin types,” she says.
From a treatment perspective, Dr. Downie favors LaseMD Ultra, a laser that can be used on all skin tones. “This is a nonablative laser that treats melasma, all hyperpigmentation, all precancerous lesions, freckles, fine lines, and wrinkles. This is a good option for all skin types, races, and ethnicities,” she says. “I do a minimum of three sessions per year to treat my melasma and decrease pore size, fine lines, and wrinkles.”
S. Manjula Jegasothy, M.D.; Miami, Florida
S. Manjula Jegasothy, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Miami, Florida, has used countless topical skin brighteners over the years in her hunt for a perfect formula that addresses dark spots. Her holy grail? MiamiMD Skincare Dark Spot Corrector, which she developed herself. “Darker-skinned people like me always have trouble with uneven pigmentation, so this product is a must to keep my skin tone even and more luminous, something that helps me look younger,” she says. “I use this type of cream on darker areas of my skin daily.”
Among her favorite in-office treatments is one that helps address sagging skin (and ward off the need for a face lift). “I have always had a full face, and that kept me looking younger in my 40s. But now in my 50s, my cheeks and neck would really sag if I didn’t get Ulthera ultrasound-based treatments every three months,” she says. “I don’t plan to get a surgical face or neck lift, and these treatments keep my sagging stable, so hopefully I never have to go under the knife.”
Rachel Westbay, M.D.; New York, New York
While neurotoxin injections and BBL (broadband light, a type of IPL) are among the go-to treatments for Rachel Westbay, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical in New York City, she doesn’t discount the value of in-home, topical skin care to keep her complexion looking fresh. Among the products she counts as staples are ISDIN Isdinceutics Flavo-C Serum (“Vitamin C is a required cofactor for the enzymatic synthesis of collagen”); Skinceuticals P-Tiox Serum (“Along with retinol, I use this collagen-stimulating peptide serum every evening to maximize collagen production and overnight repair”); and sunscreen, naturally. “No amount of good skin care and/or treatments in the office are worth it if you are not protecting your skin every day against the No. 1 thing that accelerates aging the fastest, and that is UV light,” she says. “So, yes, SPF is an absolute must and my adherence to sun protection since I was quite young is a huge part, I think, of the reason why my skin quality is what it is. When I want a tinted SPF, I reach for the Revision Skincare Intellishade. When I want a nontinted option, my hands-down choice is Exuviance Age Reverse Day Repair. They are both incredible.”
Finally, Dr. Westbay relies on an at-home device launched by Marmur Medical founder Dr. Ellen Marmur to help break up hyperpigmentation and stimulate collagen production. “I use MMSkincare MMSphere to augment what I do in the office and in my skin care routine. The MMSphere is an effective, scientifically proven LED device that capitalizes on a technology called photobiomodulation and a gentle way of altering skin function,” she says.
Dylan Greeney, M.D.; Evansville, Indiana
Like any respectable dermatologist, Dylan Greeney, M.D., counts sunscreen as the ultimate skin care item to reduce the signs of aging (and the chance of developing skin cancer). But beyond that, he also favors a bestselling Sephora favorite: Drunk Elephant Virgin Marula Luxury Face Oil, which he calls his “ultimate topical skin care hack to look younger.” While the derm acknowledges there are several marula face oils on the market, he says he’s partial to this one because the brand made him first fall in love with the oil. “Marula oil immediately restores that youthful glisten to the skin; it changes the way that light reflects off the surface of your skin, improving the appearance of skin quality,” he says. “The Drunk Elephant version also contains polyphenols, which have antioxidant properties for added anti-aging benefits.”
Though several low-to-no-downtime treatments aimed at producing younger-looking skin are available at dermatology offices, Dr. Greeney says not to discount a classic option: the chemical peel. “The VIPeel is one of my favorite low-downtime and painless procedures that I try to do at least every three months,” he says of the multi-acid peel made in variants to target different skin types and concerns. “I like the VIPeel because there is no pain or swelling, and I can continue my daily work as a dermatologist,” he adds. “I struggle with hyperpigmentation and dark spots from melasma. Whereas alternative treatments for melasma can sometimes even worsen the condition, chemical peels are an underrated procedure for these types of problems.”
Melanie Palm, M.D.; San Diego, California
Sometimes, complexions can use a bit of a boost before special events — and for those times, Melanie Palm, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon in San Diego, California, relies on Skinvive by Juvéderm. The treatment, geared to improve skin smoothness and hydration, is the only intradermal microdroplet injection approved in the U.S. “The treatment is facilitated by a smooth gel that’s injected as intradermal microdroplets below the surface of the skin, resulting in improved skin skin smoothness, hydration, and radiance,” Dr. Palm says. Approved for all Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-VI (lightest to darkest), Skinvive does not require a series of treatments, offers minimal downtime, and provides glowing skin lasting six months. Dr. Palm loves this treatment as a “refresher” before going to weddings and big parties.
For facial toning and skin tightening, she turns to Emface, a 20-minute treatment that uses radiofrequency and electrostimulation technology to lift the appearance of cheeks and forehead and define the jaw, thanks to 75,000 electrical pulses that trigger muscle contractions. “I personally get this treatment done several times a year,” she says. “It’s a completely nonsurgical and pain-free alternative for those who are not good candidates for neuromodulators or injectable fillers.”
This article is for general informational purposes only.
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